White people don’t ride the bus in Baltimore.
When Rosi and I jumped on yesterday, the driver hadn’t been told about the day-long block party and road closures. She got in a huff and turned the bus right around! Next bus we jump on, same story, and after half an hour of circling our house, the driver just told everyone she’d drop them off somewhere downtown. Fortuitously that was right in front of the “World Famous Lexington Market!”
There seems to be a very distinct class and colour divide in Baltimore. I’m unsettled to see such a vivid manifestation of this in a supposed first-world country, in this century. It seems to be cut fairly clearly here. African-Americans are poor. African Americans live in areas full of run-down and abandoned buildings which are considered dangerous and support a booming drug trade. White people all drive cars. White people don’t walk on the streets at night. I never imagined that I’d see such dis-integration here.
a crumbling church in West Baltimore
It does seem as though the young people who stick around in this town are really fighting for change. Frank, our generous host, works for the American Civil Liberties Union – rallying at full intensity for better school facilities for Baltimore city. Jen, his lovely wife, works at a homeless shelter for women, and is training for medical school. Dan, founder of the OrchKids program is offering kids in a rough neighbourhood the chance to transform their life with music. Undeniable similarities to what I saw in Venezuela.
Yesterday we ended up at the bustling, crazy market famous for their shrimp salad sandwiches and being the epicentre of the drug trade. We had such an adventure! Rosi and our friendly neighbouring companion coaxed me into trying fresh oysters and clams, we were privy to southern delicacies (fried chicken, crazy looking cakes), and the general hustle and bustle was super fun. Many people told me that they loved my white-girl dreads!
empty oyster shells